Launch on Heckman's Island

On Monday John invited me, if I was interested, to go with him the next morning for the launch of Ed’s boat down in Lunenburg County. I wasn’t sure about it, since I knew that John and Ed had sailed together many times and didn’t want to be just a tag-along. John reassured me that it was a social event and told me he’d be leaving around 8 if I was interested. I realized that I was.

The next morning we drove down to Ed’s place, which is at one end of Heckman’s Island, on a lovely little piece of Lunenburg County drumlin and shoreline. The day started with some discussion and consultation at the beach with Ed and his neighbour Lorne (it was reported that Dave, who had not yet arrived, wanted to jack the aft end of the cradle and get some oil or grease under to help get the boat moving) and checking out gear before we went up to the house for tea and more discussion.
When we went back down to the beach a few people had started to arrive. It was, as John had suggested, a social event, and some of the others had t-shirts that read Heckman’s Island Boat Hauling Crew, which suggested that they were not first-timers like me. Most of the others were guys and seemed from a quick look to be part of the same demographic as John and me; that is, there was a predominance of geezers.
We started assembling a skid way of six by six timbers that were still greasy from the haul of the Concertina last fall. Pulp hooks were the tool of choice since these slippery babies were not be picked up by hand. Someone used a pry bar while someone else knocked in the iron dogs that held the timbers together. Soon enough the skid way was built, with extra timbers set off to the side to extend it later, and some jacking and oiling was done. The boat on its cradle was also well secured with block and tackle and a bight around a tree in case she started to take off on her own.
The tide was dead low. Everything was ready. We all stood around the beach waiting. I understood that a guy named Philip was coming with a tow truck but that he was a little later than planned. When he did arrive the action started.
It was clear that Philip had done this before as he drove his truck down to the water’s edge, hooked the cable onto the aft end of the cradle, and began to pull. Guys with long pry bars stood by on either side to try to muscle the cradle back into line if it started to stray, but she moved down nicely, needing only a couple of nudges along the way. Once she was out of the shed, the first sections of the skid way were taken apart and moved down to the water next to the tow truck.
When Philip had pulled her down as far as he could, he drove the truck up into the shed and connected with the pushing device built out of a couple of tree trunks and heavy iron pins. We got the skid extensions put together and he proceeded to push the boat and cradle down into the water.
The last part was loading the lead weights onto the cradle so that it would stay on the bottom and allow Concertina to float off when the tide came up around 7 that evening.
I would like to have stayed to see that because she is a pretty boat (look here). However, others of the geezer crew were planning to come back later to make sure she did float off and help get her out to the mooring, so John and I headed back to the city. I may not have been able to help a whole lot, but I was a little more than just a tag-along, and now I have my own Heckman’s Island Boat Hauling Crew t-shirt.

Guess I’ll have to come back in the fall to actually earn the shirt!

Gölyazı – an album

Shortly after we arrived in Istanbul, we travelled with Gül to her little house at Gölyazı (you can read an article from Zaman that tells some of Gölyazı ‘s geography and history here). This is the place where Gül hosted summer residencies for artists from Türkiye and many other countries a few years ago and where those artists made site specific art installations, many of which can still be seen today.
It is a place to talk about art.
A place with art on the walls.
A place where most people still live by fishing.
A place where gardens are in tins.
And a place where we had some great Turkish food.
If you are anywhere near Bursa, go west until you can see Lake Uluabat on your left, then watch for the sign. Gölyazı is always worth a visit.

More on Learning

My intention has been to write a few posts exploring some of the more notable events and images from our recent trip, but that will have to wait for the moment because something else has intervened that has pre-empted the news from Türkiye and Syria.

It started when I picked up T. from work on Thursday to bring him to our house for dinner. He told me on the way that A. had received a letter from “the big school”, which is the Elementary school a couple of blocks away where she will start Primary in September, and that she was very excited, running around the house with the letter in her hand and chanting, I’m going to the big school. She turned five in February and there is no question that she is ready.

He told me that she had made her first word, “click”. He said he wasn’t sure how she spelled it, and we figured it might have been “klk”. She has been able to print her name and her sister’s, and to copy other names, but to make a word on her own was pretty significant, I thought, and click was an interesting choice. We found out later from S. that the word was actually “lik”, pronounced lick, which is certainly apt because of the habits of her real dog, Dewi, and of her stuffie, Woofer, who both show their affection by licking. It also could have been her attempt to print "like", always a favourite of beginning writers like A.

Yesterday afternoon A. invited me to make pictures with her using the dry erase boards the girls had got at Christmas. I decided to make a picture that would include a sentence for her to read, so I drew a small boat with a figure in it waving and then printed the sentence: “A. IS IN THE BOAT”. We read it together. At the same time A. was printing her alphabet and numbers up to ten, telling me that she was getting ready for going to school. She has also been drawing hopscotches in the driveway to get her numbers right. Then, while I was helping with supper, she drew a long cloud with a small figure standing on it in the space above my boat and told me it was her sister E. It was a wonderful completion to the picture, and I printed another sentence: E. IS ON THE CLOUD”, which she was also able to read.

It is no surprise that A. should be putting together the pieces that will allow her to start reading, since she has always been read to (right now she is in the middle of Charlotte’s Web) and is a thoughtful and inquisitive individual, but that doesn’t take anything away from the joy of watching her begin to decode the printed language around her as she constructs her own understanding of text. As T. pointed out, she is a bit of a night owl, and we both imagined her in the not too distant future with a flashlight under the covers exploring the worlds of reading. We are privileged to be able to watch it happen.

Back (Home)

Yesterday morning we woke up very early in our own bed, back (home) after four weeks away. The dawn was grey with fog and ships sliding quietly into the still harbour, and it turned into a day of re-entry and reorientation, a day of laundry and vacuuming and digging a hole and pulling weeds and resting and drinking rum punch and eating sweet corn, and a day of sunshine and blue skies. It finished with A. and E. out on the deck taking turns chasing bubbles from the automatic bubble blower I bought from a guy selling them near the top of Istiklal a few nights ago and nodding off later in front of the laptop.

This morning we are in our house and in our home, and it’s good to be here, good to be back. The ground ivy at the edge of our “lawn” is in full and happy bloom, along with the forget-me-nots, buttercups, and bleeding hearts, and there are chickadees and goldfinches in the treetops outside my window. It’s a bright morning here in Ferguson’s Cove.

One of the wonders of this trip, besides our many adventures in Istanbul, Ciralı, and the Syrian Desert, has been the realization that we have more than one place in the world that feels like home, more than one place where we feel welcomed and loved by the people who live there. It is both a privilege and a blessing, and it is always difficult when it comes time to leave – as Rashid loudly insisted, “No good-byes!” -- and to start those long leaps over mountains and oceans and cultures we need to make to get back here, back to this home.

My last post was completed in Ortaköy almost a month ago, a few days after we landed and before we headed for Syria. There haven’t been any more in the interim because we were too busy in Türkiye and because access to blogspot was denied in Syria, so my task now is to sift through the images and memories to construct a few posts to give some idea of what the whole thing was all about.

I will do that, but I’ll have to fit it in with finishing digging that hole and pulling weeds and mowing and planting the garden and getting to all the other tasks attached to this home. I will keep you posted.

Istanbul!

We made it! The ash cloud cleared enough, and our flight left Halifax YHZ late on Wednesday night as scheduled, no cancellation, no delay, no derailing of our schedule. We consider ourselves to be very lucky, as we landed at Heathrow, spent a few hours in the city, boarded our BA flight to Istanbul, and made it!

There were odd glitches of course, like no food on the flight to Istanbul except for orange juice, wine, and one cookie because they said Heathrow’s catering had been shut down and wasn’t running properly yet, but neglected to tell us before we boarded, promised us a voucher when we landed (we did wonder what we would do with a voucher in Istanbul), and gave us a good Turkish sandwich and a drink instead when we landed. But once we cleared the visa line and passport control and picked up our bags it was smooth sailing on the Havas shuttle to Taksim and a happy taxi ride with a happy taksici who chatted about how spring was even more beautiful over on the Asian side, all the way to the studio and a happy welcome from Gul.

This morning I looked out at Dereboyu Caddesi and thought, Here we are again, in our other home! It had struck both of us that way as soon as we boarded the Havas and it pulled out into the traffic and down onto the sahilyolu that we were back in the place we knew so well, and it felt so familiar and so welcoming. I spoke on the phone to my friend A. about this feeling that we were in some sense returning “home”, and she simply said, “It is addictive, isn’t it?”

The question, What makes Istanbul so addictive, is a complex one, and probably one that I don’t really ever want to answer. Walking down Dereboyu to Kullankoglu bakery and patisserie in the next block was just a matter of being there again as if no time had passed. The small guy who serves up sweets in the front of the bakery was really surprised when I told him it was a year since I had last seen him and that we had just returned from Canada. “Cok zaman,” he said, so much time, but it seemed to me that the time away from here was different from the time here, that I could be away for a year and find myself back, picking up conversations and relationships as if no time at all had passed.

Last year when we came back here, I called it our second life. Now I think of it as our other life; there is the life, so full and engaged back in Canada, and there is this life that we are so lucky to be able to step back into, to have people we love who welcome us back here like family, to taste the great kuzu sis and esme salata from Sisko (where K says they run a good grill – and they do!), to ride on the sparkling Bosphorus with dear friends, to soak in the hot pool at Yalova-Termal and then eat fish soup, kalamar, and shrimp salad down on the ferry wharf, to wake up in the studio to the sounds of the street, to watch the coloured lights changing on the Bosphorus bridge, to drink Turkish coffee and acik cay, to buy a new student notebook for this year’s journal from the courtly old man in his black suit with a red sale sticker stuck between his shoulders where he couldn’t see it, and to see two girls with chains of tiny daisies in their hair to celebrate cemre of the spring.

If you have not been here, this may not resonate with you as it does with me, and you may have to just humour me for my sentiment about this place and these people, but like A. told me, this place is addictive, and you do need a hit of it every now and again. Or, I should say, I do!

Anne Carson

Some people know that Anne Carson is one of my heroes (I used to have three others, all named Robert -- two are living; one died in 2005). And some of those people have some idea why she is my hero. For those who don’t, and in honour of National Poetry Month, I am including two pieces from her series called “The Truth About God”, originally published in the collection, Glass, Irony and God in 1995.

As Susan Sontag put it, “She is one of the few writers writing in English that I would read anything she wrote.” Me too. Here’s a small suggestion of why:

God’s Woman

Are you angry at nature? said God to His woman.
Yes I am angry at nature I do not want nature stuck
up between my legs on your pink baton

or ladled out like geography whenever
your buckle needs a lick.
What do you mean Creation?

God circled her.
Fire. Time. Fire.
Choose, said God.


Would be Her 50th Wedding Anniversary Today

Cold orates upon a Roman wall.
Light is extreme (caught)
and shadows wait like
hoods to drop.
Brain taps
twice
for salt.

Was it Ovid who said, There is so much wind here stones go blank.

Treat Night

Tonight was a treat night, a treat we had waited for since early October; it was a concert at the Cohn with Jesse Cook and his band. They put on a great show, and the audience, which was largely our demographic, the ones that the Grey Power commercials are aimed at, “boomers”, our friend W said, but I think of us as “geezers”, that audience loved it. We clapped and whistled and swayed and yelled. It was, like I said, a great show.

We bought our tickets last fall and chose seats in the second row of the balcony, which turned out to be a great place to watch and listen from. Lorraine suggested we bring binoculars, and though we didn’t need them, it was wonderful to be able to peer at the players close up. It was a guitar show, but it was also a percussion show, as well as a violin show, and we were both reminded of the great concerts of Mercan Dede in Istanbul where he shared the stage and sound space so generously with the amazing players he had gathered together for his performances.

There were many very high highlights in this show, but the one that brought tears to my eyes was the closing number. It was a performance of Fall at Your Feet, which you can listen to here, but unfortunately you’ll get just the gist of it and you won’t hear what we heard tonight.

First, you need to know that the good old Rebecca Cohn’s audience from our vantage point in the balcony was pretty much a sea of grey hair. And, for the “rumba party” segment of the show, the whole audience was on its feet, not exactly dancing, but swaying and clapping and shuffling its feet to the Latin rhythms and great guitars. When the band walked off at the end, we were still standing and clapping and yelling and whistling, and of course they all came back and did one more number that really rocked the place.

Then they all came to the front of the stage and Jesse asked if we could hear OK in the balcony without mikes (which we could), and then they started a quiet clapping rhythm with only Jesse’s acoustic guitar playing and Chris Church, who is from here and whose parents and high school math teacher were in the crowd, began to sing. Chris’ violin had been one of the great elements of the show, but his voice here, straining a little without a mike, was soulful and evocative.

And next to him was Chendy Leon Jr, the great young Cuban-Canadian percussionist, who led the gentle handclapping rhythm, and then, in a moment of pure poetry, sang the sweetest harmonies next to Chris’ vocals. We had watched Chendy play all night, often couldn’t take our eyes off him as he played, but this was the true moment.

I wish you too could have heard it. It was a song and a moment we toasted when we got home with Havana Club rum, neat with a slice of lime and a touch of bitters, truly a great one!

Sunday Night

Tonight, after supper, and after T&S went home with the little girls, Lorraine and I drove out to Sailor’s Point. It has been a clear cool day with a fairly steady westerly to freshen your face and blue the sky, a day to go before sunset to do a little work with Lorraine’s new camera. Of course you can do that work almost anywhere, and you don’t have to be on the rocks by the sea to figure out how it works. But, like they say, why not? After all, it’s only about a three-minute drive and there are few things to compare with being on the rocks by the sea. So we went.

The wind was offshore, but the ocean swells were still rolling in and hitting the rocks in a steady procession, nothing spectacular, but still great to watch. A grebe was working about 20 or 30 metres out from shore, disappearing with its characteristic forward flop and coming up with slender fish that it maneuvered into the necessary swallowing position, and then going down for more. Lorraine set up the camera and together we read through some of the details in the manual to figure out some of the settings and things like aperture override and bracketing, while the swells kept sliding in and buffeting the rocks, sometimes crashing, sometimes splashing, and never stopping.

It was a great place to be as the sun dropped and illuminated the few drifts of clouds to the north and west. The sky was beautiful, but what I loved the most was the colours in the water, the slight peach reflection on the backs of the small waves heading offshore contrasting with the turquoise tinge of the sea.

It reminded of so many sunsets on or near the water, and of a poem, today’s poem, written by Denise Levertov in 1956. Though this poem is about sharks, and is tied together so beautifully throughout by its assonance, like in the closing lines, “Dark/the sharp lift of the fins”, it is the colour of the water, “the time/when a sheen of copper stills the sea,” that so often resonates with me at sunset, like it did tonight.

Here, after all that, is the poem:

Sharks

Well, then, the last day the sharks appeared.
Dark fins appear, innocent
as if in fair warning. The sea becomes
sinister, are they everywhere?
I tell you, they break six feet of water.
Isn’t it the same sea, and won’t we
play in it any more?
I liked it clear and not
too calm, enough waves
to fly in on. For the first time
I dared to swim out of my depth.
It was sundown when they came, the time
when a sheen of copper stills the sea,
not dark enough for moonlight, clear enough
to see them easily. Dark
the sharp lift of the fins.

A poem by Mark Strand

If you don't subscribe to Knopf's Poem-a-day, you might have missed this lovely poem by Mark Strand, who happens to have been born in PEI. The Knopf site is here, if you want to subscribe and/or hear him read the poem.

Mirror

A white room and a party going on
and I was standing with some friends
under a large gilt-framed mirror
that tilted slightly forward
over the fireplace.
We were drinking whiskey
and some of us, feeling no pain,
were trying to decide
what precise shade of yellow
the setting sun turned our drinks.
I closed my eyes briefly,
then looked up into the mirror:
a woman in a green dress leaned
against the far wall.
She seemed distracted,
the fingers of one hand
fidgeted with her necklace,
and she was staring into the mirror,
not at me, but past me, into a space
that might be filled by someone
yet to arrive, who at that moment
could be starting the journey
which would lead eventually to her.
Then, suddenly, my friends
said it was time to move on.
This was years ago,
and though I have forgotten
where we went and who we all were,
I still recall that moment of looking up
and seeing the woman stare past me
into a place I could only imagine,
and each time it is with a pang,
as if just then I were stepping
from the depths of the mirror
into that white room, breathless and eager,
only to discover too late
that she is not there.

Smart Girls and Poem

On Friday we learned that the SSHRC grant our daughter-in-law SP had applied for to investigate smart girls had been approved. We were delighted. SP herself is pretty smart, as are so many girls we know, young and old, and I am truly looking forward to hearing about this important research and what she finds out about smart girls.

I have no doubt that Damian Rogers, when she was in her teens, was a smart girl because she sure as hell is smart now. Smart as a whip, I’d say, quick and true. When I started to read her collection of poems, Paper Radio, I found it so good that I rationed myself – didn’t want to run through them too quickly, didn’t want to run out of more of her poems to read.

Here is one that fits today’s theme, I think:


Honour Roll Student Drunk at Pep Rally

I know what you think, and for once I don’t care.
Skipping class to pound rum and cokes at my house
puts these cheers in a whole new light: Go Blue.

Let’s get out of here. I’ll drive.

Let’s park your Corvair behind a Dumpster at Meijer’s
and spend the rest of the afternoon drinking PBR.
Roll a joint and take down that feathered roach clip
hanging from your rearview mirror.

Let me have your tongue in my mouth for a while.
And for fuck’s sake, stop talking.

I want to stay out until the night past the dashboard
is black as the cheap kohl eyeliner
I see the girls behind Sunshine Foods
melt down with their yellow lighters
before rimming their lids like rabid animals.

Come on, let’s board up the windows with our breath.

Let your fingers slide inside my panties,
your belt buckle break open easily in my hands.


If you want to read more, you can buy the book, or you can hear her read a few more of her poems here.

And if you, like SP, are a smart girl, be happy that she is going to start her study of you and girls like you.